XVI. Annual Bükk – Aggtelek Bike Tour

There were so many programmes to choose from on May 24^th, the European Day of Parks, that it was very difficult to choose: Baradla Chamber Music Festival, Stargazing Tour, 70th Birthday of the Tengerszem Hotel and Environmental Education Centre Exhibition Opening. Hubert Kessler Memorial Tour of the Baradla Cave, and the Hubert Kessler Memorial Surface Tour. In he end, we decided at the last minute to join the XVI. Annual Bükk - Aggtelek Bike Tour. The Bükk and Aggtelek National Park Directorates annually organise a joint cycling tour between the two parks. The 75 km route from Szilvásvárad to Aggtelek passes through thirteen villages. There are plentiful natural and cultural history sights along the way. We got the bikes to Aggtelek at 8am where other participants from the area gathered with their bikes to be loaded onto trailers. By 8:30 we were on the buses and by 9:30 in Szilvásvárad. In total, 87 riders took part - a 50% increase from last year. At 10 we were off, led by Tamas Kondrát and a team of five riders from Aggtelek National Park (ANP) staff. Kata and I made up the second team from ANP. Szilvásvárad is famous for its trout stream, fish restaurant, narrow-gauge railway, and beautiful ravine which you can hike through.

Before we knew it we were whizzing downhill past Nagyvisnyó and bringing up the rear. While a few cyclists try to make a race out of it, everyone really goes at their own pace. For the most part, the route follows the National Blue Hiking Trail. Kata and I are both avid cyclists, but are out of shape and were not sure that we would be fit enough to complete the entire route. If not, the escort cars were never far behind if someone had had enough, there was a broken bike, or if there was an injury. Peti or Mariann were frequently seen hanging out the window snapping photos as if it were the Tour de France.

The gorgeous section after Dédestapolcsány that took us along and above the shores of the Lázbérc Reservoir was our favourite part of the journey.  Built between 1967-1970, the drinking water reservoir is 2.5km long, 0.6 km wide and contains 6.2 million m³ of water. The lake and the surrounding 77 hectares were declared a nature reserve in 1975.

We passed through Uppony and Borsodbóta before tackling the first of the three big climbs of the day, taking us up and over the Bükk Mountains. I promised myself I would not get off my bike and walk, even though some were walking their bikes faster than I was peddling. I was always way ahead of Kata on the climbs, but she always passed me on the way down - reminding me of a line in Fred Small's "Talking Wheelchair Blues." Arriving at Sajómercse, our first rest stop 25km into the tour, racks of fresh out of the oven, hot kenyérlangós (a kind of Hungarian pizza), stacks of Sportszelet candy bars, boxes of apples and big glasses of elderflower szörp greeted us. Mariann had kindly arranged for some vegetarian kenyérlangós for Kata and I. With the sky darkening and thunder booming in the distance, we were convinced the downpour would commence soon. But while it rained a little, we somehow escaped the powerful storm that hit not far away.

The route through Putnok took us through a very poor area, but at the same time, filled with very beautiful houses in states of great disrepair. Somewhere on the uphill climb between Putnok and Gömorszőlős, we got caught by a light rain that had been threatening on an otherwise hot and sunny day. While deeply forested, the bugs made this part a bit unpleasant for me. If there had been a bit of wind, or if I could have cycled faster, it would not have been a problem. They really had a thing for my ears. We passed the Aggtelek National Park's Peat Bog House and the Mihály Tompa Memorial House in Kelemér.

We arrived in the eco-village of Gömörszőlős where we had been just last summer with Kata's granddaughter (see blog). There were boxes of apples and bananas and Balaton candy bars for our second break. Before departure I was fairly confident that we would be able to make it this far, depending on the climbs. While physically challenged and feeling our legs, by this point it was a given that we would continue until the end.

The second big climb ended with a lovely descent along a well-maintained road into Zádorfalva, and then through Ragály before the last uphill challenge before Trizs. I found the long serpentine was strangely easier than the section leading up to it. We did not spot it, the Fruktarium guesthouse and palinka producer, one of the winners of an Aggtelek National Park official product certification last year are located in Trizs.

It was at this point that Kata's chain fell off. The two ladies behind me called that Kata needed help, and one actually turned around with me and in two seconds fixed the chain. The last 5 km until Aggtelek seemed to take forever, with me expecting to see the cliff entrance to the Baradla Cave at every turn, but we finally made it. It was a lovely day, a good personal challenge, and a great way to see the area.

After getting our tour t-shirts we collapsed in the grass. Being a Saturday, and beyond that feeling we well deserved a celebration of sorts, we wandered across the street to split a langos and then grabbed a beer or two - thus promptly regaining all the calories we had just laboured to burn off - but that is the way of things. Relaxing in the shade with our beers, we listened to one the choirs practicing for their performances in the cave. All 87 riders finished under their own power and there were no accidents. We are definitely signing up next year.

Route: Szilvásvárad --- Uppony - Borsodbóta - Sajómercse - Putnok - Kelemér - Gömörszőlős - Zádorfalva - Ragály - Trizs - Aggtelek

More information: Tourinform-Aggtelek, 3759 Aggtelek, Baradla Oldal 3. Tel: 48/503-000. aggtelek@tourinform.hu