Pre-Valentines Bitch Moan and Wine Club Saturday night featured the Kvassay Vineyard from Villany, and was hosted by the Doblo Wine Bar

A newish name on the Villány wine scene, Kvassay has been making ground and winning wine competitions with his fine selection. Ben and I also brought a selection of local organic products and Fair Trade products from our new Fair Trade shop (Suto u. 2)

We sampled 8 wines in total:
- Sauvignon Blanc 2009
- Kékfrankos Rosé 2009 (among the top 100 wines listed by Borigo http://www.borigo.hu/ in 2009)
- Portugueser 2009
- Merlot based Cuvée 2008
- Merlot 2008
- Cabernet Franc & Cabernet Sauvignon Cuvée 2008
- Surprise 1: Cabernet Franc 2009
- Surprise 2: Merlot 2009

Unexpectedly having to help out behind the bar serving our boisterous crowd of 50 guests, I was kept too busy to keep track of my wine reviews after the Portugueser. I don’t like pear, and the Sauvignon was very peary. I liked the Rose very much. The Portugueser was typically raw-beefy, so I knew ahead of time its pleasures would be lost on this vegetarian. I really enjoyed the other wines, but was unable to take notes or keep track of which I was drinking and in which order. Judging from the wines people went back to for the free favorite glass at the end, at least at my station, the winners on the night were the Sauvignon Blanc and Rose. Video here

Founded in 2002 by Istvan Kvassay, this family vineyard suddenly passed into the hands of 23 year-old son Levente in 2007; making Levente one of the youngest wine makers in the country. He is new, fresh and an up and coming wine maker whom dares to impress and take on the older competition. Already making a name for himself in wine competitions. Among the big Villany names like Gere Tamas, Gere Zsolt, Róth, Tiffán, Maul, Günzer, Bock, Vylyan and Wunderlich, Kvassay walked away with a prize for his 2008 Portugieser, as he had done earlier for his Rosé. The Kvassay Vineyard consists of 3 hectares of grape varietals like Kekfrankos, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Kékfrankos, Portugieser, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. He is producing 20000 bottles annually.

Ben and I just opened a new segment to their books and tourism empires which involves fine foods, spices, chocolates, coffees and teas plus many other things. During the wine tasting we introduced a number of products available at the shop, including organic jam, mustards, paprika cream and onion-almond spread from Bio Berta, one of Hungary’s largest organic food processors. Everyone also got to try a number of our Fair Trade organic chocolates, such as
MASCAO plain orange chocolate
MASCAO plain 85% chocolate
MASCAO cinnamon, coriander, orange peel
MASCAO PLAIN WITH CHILLI
COMPAÑERA Noir 72%
SONRISA White Blueberry
SONRISA WEISS Mango
SONRISA Plain Ginger
FAIRETTA quinua
FAIRETTA guarana

In preparation for Valentines Day, we prepared some appropriate gift packages of chocolates, teas, coffees and LUSH cosmetics (incorporating Fair Trade cocoa butter, among other ingredients). These are available at the shop.

Valentines Day marks the biggest shopping day of the year, when it comes to chocolate and flowers. By purchasing organic and Fair Trade chocolate and flowers, your money will no longer be going towards toxic pesticides, child slavery, and farm worker exploitation. Over 40 percent of the world’s conventional chocolate (i.e. non-organic and non-Fair Trade) comes from Côte d’Ivoire (Ivory Coast), where the International Labor Organization (ILO) and US State Department have reported widespread instances of child slavery. Exploitation of cacao farmers and farm workers is the norm in the chocolate industry. Organizations such as Pesticide Action Network point out that commercial flowers, produced in Colombia and elsewhere, are the most toxic and heavily sprayed agricultural crops on Earth. If you are giving chocolate to your loved one(s) this year, or your kids are giving presents at school, please consider giving organic Fair Trade chocolate. Fair Trade guarantees that the small farmers receive a fair wage, work in safe conditions, do not use child or slave labor, and that human rights are respected in the production of the products. A fair wage ensures that the small farmers can invest in their future, their children’s education and their community.

If you are interested in participating in our monthly wine tasting events, please contact us at wine@bitchmaonwine.com

Kvassay Sauvignon Blanc 2009
The reductive wine making practice has given this wine lively acids that dance on the palate, and a dynamic, full-bodied bouquet for the nose to appreciate this finely crafted wine. Moderately intense bouquet and herbal tones, yellow-golden hued with green flashes and a scent of grassiness and sweetness gives this wine a creamy roundness. Heavy enough to sip alongside a Székely cabbage or creamy vegetable soups with sour cream, but also light enough for those summer picnic gatherings complementing a yogurt pasta salad and eggplant cream spread.

Kvassay Kékfrankos Rose 2009
Kékfrankos grapes put through a reductive process (essentially the mirror image of ‘oxidation,’ forcing more negative sulphurous characteristics leaving reminiscent hints of struck flint, burned match, rubber or cabbage). It is no surprise that Balaton comes to mind with an exhibiting fruity aroma. A bright, buoyant acidic light rosé wine. The acids keep the flavor from flattening out which stay ripe on your palate. Initially a bit shy, with a forest fruit scent, the sweet ripe fruit character comes to the fore with a bit of time as you swirl around. Good with fresh vegetables and tuna fish, to be quaffed on light-hearted sun-drenched summer afternoons when we only do what we feel like. Also good as a spritzer wine. 

Kvassay Merlot 2008 (not yet available on the market)
Deep vibrant red/purple in colour, with a rich flavour and bouquet. Matured in small oak barrels for 16 months. The aroma of this wine is crammed full of small berries from blueberry and sour cherry to rosehip; but one can also sense the presence of anise and licorice creeping in. Like the smell, the taste is also of fruit with the moderately intense ripe scent of the wine proceeding from the initial spiciness to the sweet aroma (plum, blueberry, cherry). Well-balanced acidity and bright fruit flavours. It is still youthful in appearance, but don’t let that judge this wine. Due to its roundness, it is good to sip already but more time will make it an even more complete Merlot. Complements roast goose or duck next to braised cabbage and mashed potatoes.

Kvassay Portugieser 2009
From its purple colour, one could guess that we are dealing with a young wine. This is an afternoon or early evening wine. A moderately intense sour cherry, blueberry and rosehip bouquet blend with a hint of spiciness. A nice well-rounded, structured red wine with fresh acids and soft tannins. Ideal for hot, summer afternoons because its fruitiness and light structure are so refreshing that it will not fell you. At first, classic tomato stew and pasta come to our mind, but in the garden season, fresh grilled meat is a good choice. Also delightful with a traditional plate of sausage, cracklings and freshly baked bread, or tomato ragu and bruscetta. It is also excellent with stew (bogracs).

Kvassay Cuvée 2009 (not yet available on the market)
50% Cabernet Franc, 25% Portugieser, 25% Merlot make a medium-bodied, balanced, structured wine you do not need any excuses to drink. Aged in small oak barrels for 14 months. Attractive aroma of dark chocolate, hint of bay leaf and a touch of leather, inspiring a feeling of freshly pitted sour cherries extruding from a dense core just starting to reveal the full potential and depth of this wine. Kept bottled, it will be even better in time. Will be an excellent wine in the summer, complementing grilled meats (for example, a good, old-fashioned steak), but also good with wild game salami, cured ham or mangalica bacon if you do not want to be too close to the fire.

Kvassay Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Cuvée 2008
A deep ruby-red wine with delicious tannins and its own distinct tartness. The scents are especially intense, with cinnamon, vanilla, anise, currant and cognac cherries all giving the imagination something to ponder a bit. The wine’s remarkable tannins and acids have hidden its potential. Serious, but not too heavy, this wine is easily consumable and to entertain your most distinguished guests. Put a Tchaikovsky ballet on the stereo, and enjoy a sirloin steak in smoked bacon, thyme and rosemary marinade.

Doblo Wine Merchants (Doblo borkereskedés). Located on Dob utca 20 (on the corner of Holló utca)