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The Goodlife in Aggtelek National Park Part XXXVIII: Revitalisation of the Bodrogzug Wetlands...

zemplen nature reserveProject Launch: Revitalisation of the Bodrogzug Wetlands, and 30 Year Anniversary of the Zemplén Nature Reserve, Nov. 6

It has been probably 24 years since I was last in the Zemplén, I think my first or second Christmas in Hungary. A young English student of mine invited me home for the holidays. I remember being introduced much to my surprise to Roald Dahl as a horror writer and not just the author of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, and also going sledding in the Zemplén Hills. This time around, that young English student is now the Director of Aggtelek National Park, and we were there in a different capacity.The Bodrogzug is the location where the Bodrog and Tisza Rivers meet. This landscape is unique in Hungary for being the only area that still experiences regular flooding. Consequently, many of the area’s natural treasures have been undisturbed, and in 1989 the Tokaj-Bodrogzug Nature Reserve was awarded RAMSAR site status for its extensive waterfowl habitats.

Aggtelek National Park just won an almost 830 million HUF EU-funded project under the Széchenyi 2020 Programme to revitalise the wetlands here. This involves the destruction of some now defunct man-made objects, construction of others, dredging, and a number of other activities. The project launch took place in the nature reserve offices in Bodrogkeresztúr, a renovated former synagogue that looks more like a 19th century granary such as the MagtArt in Bódvaszilas. The synagogue was built between 1906-1920 by Jews in and around the Rákóczi estate.

András Rácz, the Deputy Minister for Agriculture in charge of environmental issues opened the event. Probably the most interesting presentation was by Zoltán Bihari on "World Heritage Status and Nature Protection." He is the Director of the Tokaj Region Grape and Wine Research Institute, as well as a member of the Tokaj World Heritage Stewardship. He is also the only one who used a Power Point presentation correctly. Unfortunately, most people read from the slides and face the screen rather than the audience - they might as well just pass out hand-outs or not show up at all. At best, the technology should be used as a reminder, to emphasise main points and for background photos.felt bicycle

The Polyán Society from Mikóháza organised a buffet of local products, including nice cheeses from the unusual Borzderes, or Carpathian Brown cow. The society is active in the protection and popularising this cow and its products. The name originates from the mixed colouration of its coat, resembling that of a badger. There were also some delicious drink syrups - I especially liked the raspberry, while Kata preferred the beet - and of course some palinka. We also picked up an interesting farmer's almanac they produced in 2013 full of information and recipes. The 2011 version is available in .pdf here.

üst kocsiAt the end of the day we went to look at a couple of the work sites.

The Bodrogzug is one of the finest canoeing areas in the country. The annual spring floods begin in late April or early May. You must be in possession of a permit to canoe on the river.More info about the canoe tours: http://www.anp.hu/en/menu/site/show/114/viziturak

I was given the following day off, and was happy when Sányi stopped by and asked if I was interested in going mushrooming. It has been at least 2 months since the last time, and while the freezer is full of mushrooms, I missed the exercise, fresh air, and relaxation of the hunt. It is nearing the end of the mushrooming season, with only the St. Michael/Honey Fungus (potypinka) and the Wood Blewit (lillatönkű pereszke) still around. The terrain was extremely wet and muddy. Wood blewits are extremely difficult to spot in the field, well-covered by tufts of grass. You only see the purple after you pick them, on the stems, while the cap is grey and blends in well with the surroundings.műtargy It took me a long while for me to start seeing them, and only then in among the sloe bracken and not in the fields. They also tend to like the same areas as the St. George mushroom - another blewit. Even though it was past its edibility date, I was very excited to have spotted my first St. Michael mushroom on a tree trunk by a big puddle a bit further on from a group of wood blewits. In the end, we collected about 3/4 of a bucket.

Sányi was also game to go the next morning. I met him for a palinka at the Italbolt at 7am, and we were off in a direction and territory I had not yet been. We concentrated on the fields, but since a tractor had been through just a short time ago with a chopper, we did not have much luck. Sányi had assured me that hiking boots were in wood blewitorder, not wellies, but of course he forgot to mention the stream crossing. He ended up carrying me across the Rakaca Stream on his back. I think a lot of people would have paid to see a photo of this, but I was not about to ask him to pause in the middle for a selfie. With no luck along the banks of the stream either, we headed through thick bramble to the far hills to try to harvest a big tree mushroom similar to the Chicken of the Woods but much darker. Unfortunately, the wild boar or another mushroom hunter beat us to it. On the way back, we did have some better luck, finding a few before celebrating back at the Italbolt with a couple more palinkas. I was suitably squiffed by the time I got home and it was only 10am. After I sobered up a bit, we continued to turn over the soil in the vegetable and flower beds, and plant the over-winter crops such as garlic, horseradish and salads. We also pulled up the last vegetable in the garden, some small celeries. We were a bit careful with our digging because earlier in the week Kata had called me at work to tell me she had been digging in the former potato patch and unearthed a leg. My first wood blewitquestion was "human or animal?" She was still unsure, but it was fresh. It seems a fox had buried a wild boar leg and "refrigerated" it our garden for later.

Later on Saturday we went to get the car checked and on the way back stopped in at our friends in Perkupa for a load of horse shit. Marika and Guszti loaded our car up with 9 large, and very strong, bags of dry horse manure for the garden. Also a bag of Dalia bulbs, some strawberry and raspberry plants, and a bag of iris bulbs. In return, we brought them a big potted chive (one of the only things they do not have in their garden) and a load of purple salad seeds. While the dry stuff does not have any odour, we managed to get it everywhere from Kata's hair to in my ear.

Kata cooked up a gomba paprikas with the mushrooms, as well as an apple-butternut squash crumble, while I threw together some broccoli cream soup and a wood blewit omelet.

On Sunday I split the last of the big stumps we had dug out for firewood and cleaned up the stables before we paid a visit to our friends Jeroen and Lennard where we were treated to a big lunch of lettuce soup, lentil salad with peppermint, beets, and a pie for dessert. We then collected the last of the apples and walnuts before we took a lovely hot sauna.