This year's around Balaton Bike Trip did not start off very auspiciously. After picking up the rental bikes, Jon and Gyorgyi and I went to Most Kert, from now on to be known as Soha Nem Tobbe Kert. Most used to be my favorite downtown kert, but I have been three times this year and very disappointed with the slow and stroppy service and mediocre and overpriced food every time. We then moved on to the Urimuri Kert (Andrassy 8). This place is too fancy-shmancy to be called a kert, but it is in a courtyard in a beautiful old and partly renovated building. The entrance with arched ceiling frecoes sets the tone. The place has not yet found its market. There was a mix of the Hungarian "beautiful people" mixed in with a good representation of young tourists. It seems associated with gourmet food emporium Baldaszti. Vodka-limes were very reasonably priced at 990 huf. I had a very good Etyeki Kuria 2009 Ezterhazy Chardonnay (2400 huf per bottle at stores). I give it ***. The bartender in an artsy Pac-Man t-shirt was good and friendly, and in what must be a first in my memory for a local pub, the toilets also had wheelchair accessible stalls.

Jon and I started out on the 8:37 train from Deli pu. I suggested we start at Balaton Fuzfo and ride to Balatonalmadi a few kilometers away for Laliba's langos on Budatava Beach for breakfast, but unfortunately I missed out for the third time this season due to inclement weather. As three years ago, Jon and I made the trip part wine tasting, and to this end we decided to concentrate on vineyards we had not visited previously.

I downloaded the free wine app Wine Free for my phone that was supposed to make wine tasting easier, but its bar code reader unfortunately does not recognise Hungarian wines. The app lets you rate 1-5 stars, so I have broken it down as such:
* = did not like
** = ok
*** = good, would buy
**** = very good
***** = exceptional

The first wine stop was at the Soma Pince in Alsoors, a 200 year old cellar that used to be used by a local bishop. The woman was very friendly and helpful, recommending other stops along our route. They do not produce their own wines, but they have been retail partners with the Bortarsasag for 17 years. Her rustic garden was very much to my taste. This being the first stop, we only tasted one wine, Konyari's sparkling Lolipop Gyongyozo *** A tasty sparkling fresh wine for summer and a great way to start the tour. It was about 1900 a bottle, otherwise I would have bought one.

The next stop the Homola Pinczeszet in Paloznak because it rang a bell with both Jon and I. Balaton is most well-known for its Italian Riesling (Olaszrizling), which is why I made a point of trying other varieties as much as possible. Remembering the nice Tramini I had at Istvandy 3 years ago, I tried Homola's 2009 Tramini. Jon really liked it but I was unimpressed ** (1600 huf). Jon also had some amazing kolbasz, but none was available for sale outside a plate to eat there. I really liked the graphic design of the label, with paper boats on waves. We watched the 3rd quarter of the Olympic quarter final of the men's handball Hungary vs. world champions Iceland.

The Soptei Pinceszet in Csopak was perhaps our favorite stop of the entire trip. The waiter was tops, friendly, informative, not pushy, and really knew his stuff. The view was also excellent, and included free WiFi. We thought about having lunch on their terrace restaurant, but it was still too early yet after our late start. However, their menu looked extensive and very tempting with a variety of choices for vegetarians too. The cold soda water was also served in a white and silver wine bottle.

- Pecselyi Sargamuskataly (Muscat Lunel): was recommended by the waiter as exceptional, since muskataly is usually sweet ***
-Szekes Habzos Kekfrankos (Blaufrankisch) Rose: sparkling and strawberry to the extreme, in fact too much ***
-Soptei 2011 Chardonnay: an exceptional chardonnay, and my first purchase of the trip ****
-Soptei Feher Burgundy Pinot Blanc (Szurkebarat): ***

At the Balatonfured Wine Festival we checked out a couple vineyards that we were considering to visit. We tried Hudak Pincezet's Aszofoi Sauvignon Blanc **. The vineyards really should staff their booths with people that know something about the wine they are selling - Hudak's did not. The Dobosi Pinceszet in Szentantalfa was most interesting for me since it is almost exclusively organic. I tried the 2011 Keknyelu, a grape I have never had much love for, and again it got *. We also visited the Figula Pinceszet stand and tried the Bordoma Semillon cuvee of Semillon and Italian Riesling, ***. It had a nice sandalwood nose. Semillon is the most popular grape variety of starling birds, thus this wine is a kind that can only make wine every 4-5 years.

My friends the Lengyels have a cottage in the hills above Orvenyes, and they were kind enough to offer us place to camp. During a wrong turn, Jon got a flat, so we revisited the Huszar Restaurant where we lunched 3 years ago and had a large cola each until we could reach the Lengyels by phone. We met them at the free beach and changed the tire, then after splitting a langos, followed the family up to the cottage. Their daughter Csilla, son-in-law Shaun, and their kids were visiting and we made a nice dinner party under the stars with local wine from neighbor Balazs; and hot peppers, zucchini, eggplant all from Csilla and Shaun's garden in Spain along with bbq chicken, pork and corn on the cob . Csilla and Sean run a mountain bike tourism business Ride Sierra Nevada if you are heading that way. Jon and I had some difficulties with the tent (yes, we were still sober then). The nice innovation that instructions are stitched into the bag did not help. We managed to Jerry-rig it and get it standing, but gave up on the rain fly and basically slept under the bright moon. When packing the inherited tent, Jon mentioned that it was very heavy. We discovered why - the Chinese manufacturer had seen fit to include a large rubber hammer for the stakes. I have GOT to find one of these electric rechargeable tennis racquet fly swatters-zappers that Jackie brought back from Thailand. The next morning we had a pile of toast and cheese and homemade jam, coffee and tea with Jackie and Csaba. It was so pleasant that we got a very late 11-11:30 start. We followed the trail through the hills towards Vaszony. Looking for a way to avoid a steep climb, we met some people walking through the vineyards and asked where it leads. They said Szentjakobfa and not steep, and it was a perfect shortcut on our way to Szentantalfa.

The first stop on Day 2 was at the Pantlika Pinceszet in Dorgicse.
-2011 Presige Reserve Pino Gris (Szurkebarat): normally a half-sweet wine, this was bone dry *** 1380 huf my second purchase
-2010 Italian Riesling: ** 990 huf
Harmas : a cuvee of Syrah, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon 1525 huf * disappointingly light
Kekfrankos Zweigelt: 1260 huf * too light

We had a small lunch at the Zsoka Fogado where I had some nice wild mushroom cream soup, where I inadvertently ran over someone.

Young Balint Dobosi spent a lot of time with us at the Dobosi Pinceszet, the one I was very much looking forward to for its organic wines. His father started them on the organic route, and now almost all of their wines are certified by Biokontroll.
-2011 Organic Riesling : won the silver medal in 2012 at the international VinAgora competition, OEM (PDO Protected Designation of Origin), 1200 huf****
-2009 Organic Muskataly : Tramini and Sarga Muskataly cuvee, OEM, 1550 huf **
-2008 Organic Cabernet Sauvignon : great dark cherry nose, very dry, OEM, disappointingly light finish 1950***
-Cuvee: Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Kekfrankos, OEM, 1350 huf ***
-Philippe de Chalendar : Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot barrique , 2050 huf

Consistent with their environmental philosophy, they have made efforts to utilise what others see as waste in the wine-making process and have produced organic grape seed oil (0.1L bottle for 1450 huf) and organic ground grape seed honey paste (100g for 1450 huf). I would have bought the Italian Riesling, but already had 2 bottles to carry and Dobosi are at the organic market in Budapest (1124 Budapest, Csörsz u. 18.) every Saturday same price as at the cellar. The tasting was also free.

We stayed in Revfulop at the amazing Hullam Hostel where friends and I normally stay every Pentecost and use as a base for bike rides with the kids. Zsolt, Zoli and Gergo were very accommodating and friendly as usual. On their recommendation, we visited the Makvirag Restaurant (operated by the Kal-Vin Pinceszet) for dinner a bit up the hill, since we wanted to avoid fast food at the beach. The only red on offer was a cuvee, 1600 huf *, an unimpressive table wine. My dinner of  grilled herbed turkey breast with spinach gnocchi and smoked cheese was equally mediocre. However, Jon really enjoyed his grilled tarjan (pork). The vargabeles dessert was yummy. After dinner we wondered over to the wine festival on the pier in Revfulop and I tried the Skizo Pinceszet's (Badacsonytördemic) 2009 Voros, a 100% shiraz. I was blown away by these young wine makers, and the price at 1200 huf was extraordinary. I would have bought a case if I could carry it, but settled for one. I wish I could say something about the vineyard, but it seems they do not have a web presence. Later, we listened to the fun HaraKyru Blues Band and also checked out an exhibition of Peter Korniss photos before heading back to Hullam for a nightcap and well deserved sleep.

Day 3
Thankfully, Hullam allowed us to leave most of our bags in storage because it was going to be uphill around Badacsony and later Szt. Gyorgyhegy. The first stop was the Folly Aboretum and Vineyard in Badacsonytomaj as recommended by Soma. A 19th century folly, Mr. Folly imported pine trees from around the world from Bosnia to California to the Himalayas. You should see the size of some of these pine cones! For 700 huf you can taste a wine and explore the collection of trees, plants, and the nursery. This must be the only place in Hungary where they actually encourage you to walk on the grass. On the manager's recommendation we tried the rare Budai Zold,  a good, cold white acidic*** wine that hit the spot. Jon wanted to buy a bottle but it was way overpriced at 1900. A very friendly, relaxed, informative place with an amazing view. We also stopped in to the Szeremley Vineyard shop, and while a tasting was not possible, Jon bought a bottle of remaindered vintage 2002 Szurkebarat, 1550 huf.

I wanted to avoid the Szt. Gyorgy Pinceszet on Szt. Gyorgyhegy because I mixed them up with the producers of table wine Szt. Istvan Kororona. Luckily Jon talked me around. The climb was not nearly as difficult as I expected. The staff were very friendly. When Jon asked if we could jump in their pool our waitress said it was for private use only, but offered to spray us with the hose if we wanted.
-Italian Riesling : 1200 huf **
-Juhfark:  ashy nose, almost a Riesling, old cheese tones, 2500 huf

The last stop for the day at the Horvath Pinceszet was overwhelming, with pours coming sharp and fast. The owner was a friendly guy and able to juggle tastings for several people and tend to his customers on the terrace. The pricing is a bit odd, as he lists the bottle price (.75l) and the 2 litre jug price. He had no bottles, but he did have empty 1.5l empty water bottles. The 2l jugs are refillable, and some have been returning with the same ones for over 10 years.
-2011 Riesling : very good nose ***
-Chardonnay : - nothing characteristic, no nose
-2011 Pinot Gris : *
-2011 Muscat : - good nose but too sweet for me
-2011 Sauvignon Blanc : blue cheese aftertaste ***
-2008 Riesling : dried apricot **
-Pinot Noir Rose: good nose, strawberry *
another rose , probably Kekfrankos: **
-Agnus Niger Pinot Noir,  ** nearly *** complex mouth, but lacked a strong finish, perhaps they stretched the delicacy of the Pinot grape to its limits.

I bought a 1.5l bottle of the Sauvignon Blanc for 1050 huf because it was so unusual. I also thought that I get blue cheese and white wine all in one, and now only have to buy the olives to have a complete meal. Most wines were 700-800/liter. The tasting was free.

Some random observations from the trip:
Jon says that the apple tree in the Adam and Eve story was really a pomegranate tree.
People (kids and adults) still waive at passing trains, unlike cars and planes
Jon also says that if you have a BKV pass, you can use that in conjunction with train tickets and not pay for the train trip within Budapest city limits. Just ask for a "kiegeszito jegy Budapest-rol." Gads, the money I could have saved...

In summary, we did not have a single bad experience from when we started cycling around the lake. People were friendly, there was no cheating or taking advantage of foreigners, no resentment if we did not buy a wine that day, and very helpful with advice about where else to try. The tastings were either free or very cheap at 150-350 a deciliter everywhere, even at the festivals! There are some wine route maps produced for the Balaton area, in particular Badacsony and Zanka. While extensive, the maps are not easy to use as the dots are not linked to the addresses with numbers so are frustrating. But it is an improvement. There is also a Badacsony wine bus route now . An excellent way to celebrate 22 years in Hungary this month.

A rough map of the trip is here.